Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II, 7,678 m (25,190 ft), lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 4 km (2.5 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow saddle, is Chomo Lonzo, 7,818m (25,650 ft).
The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team in the spring of 1954. They attempted to reach the top via the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, after the team's first attempt failed in 1954. Franco and two other climbers summitted the next day. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse, which is still the standard route.
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.
Makalu, Peaks & Glaciers of Himalayas
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